Gumbo Z'herbes

This is a twist on the Southern tradition of eating collards on New Year's Day for good fortune. Only in New Orleans they do it during Lent and make a gumbo with up to seven greens (hence the name, a corruption of the French "gumbo aux herbes"). Richard Stewart of the Gumbo Shop (www.gumboshop.com) developed this unorthodox version when he decided to add a vegetarian gumbo to the menu. He threw in red beans and smoked mushrooms because other renditions he had tried tasted too much like "penance food." To smoke mushrooms: Rinse in water, then trim the bottom of the stems and place on a pan in a smoker for about 45 minutes. To cook red beans: Rinse and sort 1 pound red beans, cover with water and soak overnight. Simmer over low heat for 1 to 2 hours, until just tender. Drain, reserving the water to use as part of the water for cooking the greens. To make the gumbo: In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over medium high heat. Add the flour and stir until a peanut butter-colored roux is attained. Immediately add the onion, bell pepper and celery. Saute until vegetables are tender and start to stick and brown a little, about 6 minutes. Add the shallots, garlic, herbs, peppers and salt. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring often. Remove from heat and set aside. Meanwhile, in another large soup pot, bring the water (and bean water) to a boil. Chop the collards and cabbage into 1-inch squares and boil until just tender, about 4 minutes. Add the turnip greens, mustard greens and green onions and return to a boil. Coarsely chop the smoked mushrooms. Add it to the roux mixture and cook for 2 minutes. Carefully stir the roux-vegetable-mushroom mixture into the simmering greens and return to a boil. Add the parsley and soy sauce to taste and the cooked red beans. Bring to a boil once more, then remove from heat. Serve over rice. This dish is best if refrigerated overnight, then reheated. Makes 20 servings Per serving: 224 calories (percent of calories from fat, 46), 7 grams protein, 26 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams fiber, 11 grams fat, no cholesterol, 775 milligrams sodium.