Main

September 14, 2006

Montana

I remember the first time I came to Montana over 10 years ago I had this romanticized notion in my head of what it was going to look like. I think I got it from “Dances with Wolves” and other western movies. I was thinking that Big Sky Country would be beyond my wildest dreams. I think I built it up so much in my mind that my initial impression was somewhat of a disappointment. But it has grown on me over the years and the rolling hills, the mountains, streams and forests really are something to behold. It really is wide-open country – Big Sky Country. Unfortunately, at the end of this summer it has been Smoke-filled Sky Country. This wildfire season has been one of the worst ever (and is a big reason why I have no pictures this time.) I spent 3 days in Missoula and the sky was pretty smoky all 3 days. It didn’t matter too much, though, because I was feeling pretty hiked out after Canada. I just wanted to get some errands done now that I was back in the US and check out Missoula. Like many western towns it has grown like crazy in the last decade and real estate prices have gone up accordingly. I talked to a woman who owned a small pet shop who said she still loves Missoula, but it isn’t the same as it was even 10 years ago. It has a Wal-Mart, Target, Pier 1, Home Depot, Barnes & Noble, etc., etc., etc. But the same is true all over the West, and in most places in the US. In some ways I think it is sad. So many places that used to have a distinct personality are starting to look more and more the same. But, at the same time, how can I tell the people who live there who want access to better shopping and more affordable choices that they shouldn’t allow these stores to move in. Also, when I go to a town and see a familiar store I feel like at least I know what I can expect. I know what the quality level will be, good or bad. But it still feels like it’s a shame that so many places are starting to all look the same. Fortunately, they still have some of their personality, their distinction, left. Let’s hope they keep it.

I better quit with the soapbox before this starts to sound like a real blog. Missoula is a bit blue collar, but it has the University of Montana which injects a more progressive nature I think. To me, university towns seem to have more life to them. Not just a younger influence, but a more educated, open-minded influence which I find refreshing. In some cases it is a more liberal influence, though not always, but I tend to like that. (Don’t worry Dad. I don’t consider myself a Democrat. I like them about as much as I like the Republicans which doesn’t say a lot for either.) Oops. Forgot I was off the soapbox.

I stayed in a nice little RV park outside of Missoula, of which the biggest attractions were that it was neat, clean, reasonably priced and they had a free concert on Wednesday night. The artist was LeGrande Harvey one of whose claims to fame is that one of his songs was voted in as the Montana State Ballad in 1982. Another of his claims to fame is that he is the brother of Alex Harvey who wrote, among other country hits, “Delta Dawn”. It was a top hit in the early 70s and it brought back great memories when LeGrande played it for us. I can still remember my sister, Terri, Peggy and Jean Weisenberger, and I belting it out every chance we got one year at the beach. Our family was real thrilled every time we sang it. The words came back to me like it was yesterday. That and the huckleberry ice cream afterwards made my night even though LeGrande and his partner played a lot of other nice songs. If I wasn’t the only one in the room under 50 besides the owners of the park I woulda stuck around a while. Abbey didn’t have a great time in Missoula because we spent a lot of time in town and there wasn’t much water around. One day I did take her for a walk downtown and she managed to bring me down to the river where some kayakers were practicing their “rodeo” techniques in what looked to be a manmade rapid. She paid no attention to the kayakers, but had a great time in the water and only got a little testy when I paid too much attention to the kayakers and forgot to throw her rocks. One of the kayakers had brought his dog along with him, who also happened to be fond of diving for rocks in the water so I had to keep both of them busy. The only thing that saved me was that we had to go back to make sure the parking meter hadn’t expired.

On Friday we drove down to Bozeman, another place I had always wanted to check out. I had signed up for a rock climbing class near Bozeman on Saturday and there happened to be a campground near where we were climbing. I have been wanting to take a class for quite some time so I was pretty excited. It turned out to be a lot of fun, but quite tiring. I felt pretty good, though, when I was the oldest one there and yet was the only one who got to the top on the most difficult climb we did. Of course, I was pretty sore for the next several days not having used those muscles much before, but the youngsters don’t need to know that. That night was the big Ohio State vs. Texas football game so I decided I was too tired to cook and went to Montana Ale Works where I had dinner and watched the game. I ended up talking a long time to a chef from Hawaii who comes up every September for the month to go fly fishing in Montana and Canada so I didn’t see much of the game. It turned out to be not so good anyways. Speaking of fly fishing my brother-in-law Tim was drooling over the fact that I was in “The Land of the Trout” as he called it, but I hate to admit I didn’t do any. I called a few places to check on classes or guide service and it turned out to be way too pricey for me. I figured if I’m going to spend that much money on lessons I want to be able to go a lot afterwards to really get the hang of it. Since I don’t have the equipment I knew that wouldn’t happen. It’ll have to wait ‘til next time.

After the first couple of nights I found a nice forest service campground in Hyalite Canyon, a little outside of town. The best part about it was that it was nearly empty every night, and the second best part was that a stream ran right through it. Abbey seemed to love it right from the start. The first morning she got me up a little after 7AM and, except for 20 minutes to eat breakfast, was “fishing” and hunting for field mice until 1PM. The next morning she got me up even earlier and it was the same story. After eating lunch on the second day I figured she must be exhausted and I could go for a hike. When I got to the trailhead, she jumped up and was ready to go. I guess I know what perks her up – mice and fish. Not to mention that it was pretty cold when we got up in the morning with frost on 3 of the mornings. She’s more of a cold weather dog. The third morning she slept in ‘til 8, but we still went on a hike, though a short one, around noontime. I think I was more tired than she was. I thought she had had enough by the last morning, but after I ate breakfast she was waiting outside the door of the RV. I thought she wanted to come in, but no. She was waiting for me to come out and go for a walk up the creek with her. After our walk and after I cleaned up we took off for West Yellowstone. On the drive down she finally crashed. I guess she realized she wouldn’t see those mice again for a while. Tomorrow we say “Good-Bye” Montana and head down to Jackson, WY to meet up with some friends I met in Big Bend back in February. Then my friend, Chris, comes in for a week to hang out with us in Jackson. It’ll be nice after being on my own for a while.

September 28, 2005

Red Lodge, MT

About 8 or 9 years ago I did a backpacking trip with Outward Bound in the Beartooth-Absaroka Wilderness near Red Lodge. I had contemplated going to Bozeman, but Red Lodge was a lot closer to Billings and with gas prices being so high I decided to check Red Lodge out again on Monday. It's not a bad little town but outdoor activities are definitely the prime attraction here. I found out that there were only a few campgrounds that hadn't closed for the season. Abbey and I headed south out of town to do a moderate hike before finding a campsite for the night. It was a gorgeous day '? blue sky and nice crisp air '? so the hike was great.

Abbey seemed to be her old self again running all over and pulling on the leash. She had been real hesitant the last several days so I was glad to see that she was better, at least for the time being. The trail was mostly in a valley along a creek, but every now and then I got nice views of the surrounding jagged peaks and pockets of trees that had turned their fall colors. The campground was practically deserted which was a switch from Yellowstone and Billings. There also weren't any services except for a pit toilet. I guess I was getting soft from all those nights of hookups, but I realized that I could get by without them just like had before. If you can find campgrounds that are still open this is a great time of the year to camp. It is getting colder, and there is already snow in the higher elevations but the heat, bugs and crowds are gone.

Tuesday Abbey and I did another hike in the national forest. She was raring to go again most of the hike. We climbed up to a couple of small lakes.

It was overcast all day, but it didn't rain and we had the trail to ourselves so we couldn't complain. There was supposed to be another open campground right near the trailhead, but I guess the woman at the ranger station was wrong. When I got there the gates were closed. I was going to head back to our campsite from the previous night, but I saw a dirt road across from the trailhead parking lot and decided to check it out. I didn't go too far before I found a nice spot off the road and next to a creek. Boondocking again. It's been a while so I had to remind myself that I've done this before and it's no big deal. I've got all I need in the RV and I can use the toilet at the trailhead in the morning!

Wednesday turned out to be another gorgeous day. It was pretty chilly in the morning, but the sun was up and it eventually warmed up. Another five miles down the road from where we camped was the beginning of the West Fork Trail.

This trail hooks up with the Lake Fork Trail which we did on Monday. We followed it up for about 4 miles before we turned off to go to Lake Mary another mile or so up a steep climb.

The rain we got at the campsite last night was snow up here. There wasn't a lot of it, but there was still some on the ground where the sun hadn't hit yet and the ground was still frozen. The view from the lake was beautiful and it felt great to sit in the sun while we ate lunch. All told we hiked about 10 miles and it was pretty much the perfect hike on a perfect day. We only saw 1 couple with 2 dogs the whole trip. Tonight I'm staying back at the first campground, and this time we have it all to ourselves. Tomorrow we leave Montana for my new home state of South Dakota. Can't wait to see what my new hometown '?Rapid City - looks like.

September 25, 2005

Back to Billings

Saturday turned out to be our worst weather day with rain most of the day and we even hit some snow going through the mountains on our way back to Billings. We decided to check out what Billings has to offer though we weren't tempted by the Montana Women's Prison. Billings is reportedly the largest city in Montana which is hard to imagine until you start trying to think of what other cities there are in Montana. The downtown area isn't bad actually, though the rain seemed to have kept everyone inside. We decided to follow suit and got some great buffalo burgers at a brew pub. The menu seemed out of place though. We were expecting it to be full of big steaks and other carnivorous fare, but the burgers were good enough especially when washed down with the brewpubs own ale. There was a sports bar right next door and the ND game just happened to be on. As a bonus they had free wireless access so we got to check our email for the first time this week. What more could we ask for.

It was quite remarkable, but Chris and I managed to spend the whole week together without killing each other, or even coming close. Well, if he was close to killing me he hid it well. Sunday morning Abbey and I dropped him off at the airport and spent the rest of the day catching up on things like laundry, email and changing the oil in the RV. Not exciting, but we got some rest after the week.
RV Humor

September 18, 2005

Back on My Feet, So to Speak

After taking a day to restock the RV in Loveland, Dan and I took the dogs, Abbey and their dog Lydia, for a hike to a place called Grey Rocks Peak (or something like that). Well, it felt like I hadn't been hiking in months. Abbey must have felt the same because she was sluggish all day, though I think part of it was from the sun and somewhat warm weather. It actually was a gorgeous day for hiking, but there wasn't much shade and her black coat gets real hot in the sun. Towards the top of the peak we had to scramble up a bunch of boulder fields. Poor Abbey was really showing her age and the fact that she was tired. I even had to carry her up a few hairy spots but we finally made it and the dogs were rewarded with a shallow lake to splash around in at the top. Lydia still had tons of energy being a puppy and she wouldn't stop climbing up the rocks and running around. The rest of us ate lunch and rested. On the way down my knees got really tight, but I think it was from the rafting trip. To keep from falling out of the boat I had jammed my feet so far under the cross tubes that my knees ached quite a bit by the end of the trip. They still hadn't quite recovered and now they were aching again. Guess I'm getting old.

Saturday morning Abbey and I finally headed out for Montana. The drive was pretty uneventful since most of it was through the middle of Wyoming. Other than the strong winds that nearly blew me off the road a number of times it was pretty dull. We arrived in Billings, MT in the evening and found a pretty nice RV park, as far as RV parks go. It was only the second one that I had been to up 'til now. I justified the extra expense and the stigma that goes along with it by taking a nice hot shower, dumping my tanks, filling up with water and doing my laundry there as well. I drove around Billings a little bit to get my bearings. From the highway it is pretty ugly '? very industrial with a few refineries on the outskirts. The Montana Women's Prison is even on one of the main thoroughfares going into town. Once you get downtown though it isn't too bad. Sunday afternoon I picked up Chris Sereduke at the airport and we headed straight to Yellowstone, about 3 hours away. I hadn't seen him in a while so we talked the whole way. We were joking later that we weren't sure how the week would go since we had never spent more than a few days together before and not in more than 20 years. Anyways, we found a decent campground at Mammoth Hot Springs and settled in for the night pretty early. We were both pretty tired.